From Roma With Love!

I’m not even sure where to begin. We were in Rome for 6 days but it still felt too short….and it was our 2^nd time there! There are churches, monuments, fountains, cafes, pizzerias, gelaterias, and shops at every turn. And the architecture is stunning. And the people – even more wonderful and full of passion and energy! I think it's one of my favorite cities to just walk around in.

We spent our time in Rome with Darsh’s dad, sister/brother-in-law and their 3 kids. The first couple of days we were moving slow since we had a larger group and Darsh was sick. :( Bummer that we made it through Asia without getting sick and his first 2 days in Rome were spent in the hotel. Lucky for us we had a nice room at the Intercontinental De La Ville (Thanks Kairavi and Todd!! :) so it was comfortable resting the day away. The hotel was in a fab location right above the Spanish Steps and had a phenomenal breakfast….it was a really pleasant way to start each day.

Although there is so much to see and do in Rome….and it can be a bit overwhelming at first for those who like to cross things off their list (yes I am guilty of this), the sights are contained in one area of the city and pretty walkable (as long as you’re good with a map!) and the subway system is easy as well. Our favs by far were the Colosseum and the Vatican (St. Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel which deserves its own post-next!).

We aren’t really tour people but we decided to join a walking tour at the Colosseum because it allowed us to skip the line. I’ll be honest, I ended up zoning out the tour guide because I like to soak things in on my own. That said, he was pretty good and did a good job describing the life of a gladiator. It is totally surreal to be standing in the Colosseum – you could almost picture Russell Crowe fighting in the arena below. :) No seriously it is an incredible feeling to be standing in an arena with so much history. After the Colosseum we walked through Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum which once was the core of the Roman world and still has many ruins.

We also saw the Pantheon, which was once a temple (now Rome’s best preserved church), Trevi Fountain (so we could throw a coin over our shoulder ensuring our return to Rome, the Catacombs (kinda creepy), and Villa Borghese where we rented a 4-person bike and cruised through the park. The kids also loved the little Merry –Go-Round in the park. :)

Rome has a ton of Piazzas (squares) full of artists, vendors, tourists, and locals just hanging out. We spent some time in a few of them – Piazza Navona (my favorite), Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere and Piazza del Poppolo. The Piazzas are crowded with shops, cafes, and trattorias and are fun to just walk around. We loved the Trastevere neighborhood which had a funky, bohemian vibe and seemed to have more locals. Another cute neighborhood was the Jewish Ghetto. This is where the Jews were forced to live years ago. We went to the Jewish Museum (Museo Ebraico) which has a beautifully preserved synagogue.

Now to the food….which was excellent….and I was happy to see that there are some healthy options! Some of our favorite restaurants were Gusto (nice fun crowd and good pizza), Il Chianti (great salad and amazing thin crust pizza), Villa Tor Carbone (by the catacombs, family style Italian food), Vin Allegro (great Happy Hour in Trastevere), and Nonna Betta (amazing falafel in the Jewish Ghetto). Oh and thank god the hotel had a gym so we could work off all the yummy food! :)

I really was sad to leave. Thankfully we actually threw 3 coins into the Trevi Fountain (instead of the customary 1)….so hopefully that will really ensure our return back!!

A Rainy Day in Venice

We were in Venice a total of 36 hours, which is crazy considering it took us 32 hours to get there. And of those 36 hours in Venice it rained for 20 hours. Bummer! Actually it wasn’t so bad because the rain allowed us to sleep without feeling guilty that we weren’t doing stuff.

We almost skipped Venice but even though it was a short trip I’m glad we didn’t. It really is exactly how I imagined it. I think Vegas does a good job of preparing you for what Venice looks like…..is it bad that I couldn’t stop thinking about the Venetian? Seriously though Venice is so cute and filled with tons of narrow canals and charming, old word buildings…it really was so picturesque.

We stayed right by Piazza San Marco, which was perfect because even though we didn’t do much we were able to see the main square and church (Basilica di San Marco). But most importantly we were right by the Grand Canal, which is just beautiful and is full of shops, galleries, cafes, and restaurants.

Our first and pretty much only meal in Venice appropriately consisted of Pizza Margherita, which was fabulous – it pretty much melted in your mouth. I also ordered grilled veggies which was just ok but really the only vegetable option on the menu….and yes we did also get gelato (cookies and cream for me, mint-chocolate chip for Darsh)! I’m quickly learning that it is almost impossible to eat healthy here – seriously everything is carb central….and loaded with cheese….I’m beyond screwed…but I can always work it off when I get home! :)

Next stop is Rome where we meet Darsh’s dad, sister and family. We’re both really excited to spend some time with them!

Ciao!

Goodbye Asia, Hello Europe

I seriously can’t believe we’re done with Asia. It’s been 59 days since we started this adventure. We’ve been on 13 airplanes, 6 trains, 6 buses, 5 boats, 2 subway systems, and too many taxis and tuk tuks for me to keep track. Surprisingly we’re both doing ok physically. We’ve been pretty lucky healthwise. We do get the occasional stomach issues you get in Asia but nothing too major (I’m crossing my fingers so I don’t jinx anything!)

A trip like this can be hard at times mentally though (especially considering I’m writing this on a 32 hour journey from Bali to Venice through 5 countries). There have definitely been days where we’re homesick and exhausted and would love to just do nothing and veg on a couch….and yes there have been multiple times when I seriously considered coming home early. But then a smiling child saying hello to you in a remote Cambodian village, or hiking an insanely massive wall made by thousands of people years ago, or learning/experiencing the life struggles of others reminds you of why you leave the comforts of home to explore the world.

We still have 78 days left on our journey….well according to our original plan anyway. Yikes!

Halfway through our trip this is what we both miss the most (asides from our friends and family which of course is number 1!)

Me:

• My workouts
• My couch
• Mexican food
• Watching American sports
• Watching American sports while eating Mexican food on my couch….and then working out the next day so you don’t feel so guilty :)
• My Versace perfume
• Sweet Tea Vodka
• Not being on a budget
• Not having to use a map for everything
• Not having to brush my teeth with bottled water

Darsh:

• My bed
• My wardrobe
• Watching sports on my big TV
• Taco Bell
• Not being able to see Chicago Blackhawks and LA Lakers win the Championships
• Not being on a budget
• Biking along Santa Monica Beach

Random Thoughts so Far

As we're getting ready to finish Asia I'm sitting here thinking about everything I've learned, love, will miss, will not miss.... I'll warn you these are quite random. :)

• Asians are really good at signage. They have signs for everything. My favorite, "No Wine or Meat Allowed". This was on the way to the Big Buddha in Hong Kong....but apparently beer and cigarettes are cool!
• I love the misspelled words on menus. My favorite is "appeRtizers". How cute is that?
• All Asian girls are skinny - they eat whatever they want yet they are still skinny. Sigh!
• All Asian boys are even skinnier.
• Your perception of clean changes quickly on a long trip like this. I am a neat freak by nature and pretty much don't wear the same thing twice without washing....sorry to say this is not the case while on the road!
• I can use a squat toilet with the best of them. I had no idea....but when you gotta go you gotta go.... :)
• Your perception of clean public bathrooms also change. For better or for worse my scale has gone way down....
• I can be a damn good negotiator....who knew?
• I love the choice of music at bars/restaurant - all cheesy. Celine Dion (Titanic - My Heart Will Go On) and Whitney Houston to name a few.
• I will definitely not miss being asked if I need a tuk tuk, motorbike, taxi ride, or transport.
• I kinda like being called "Madam" and I think Darsh likes being called "Boss".
• Darsh is really going to miss $1 beers.
• I am really going to miss my fruit juices and papaya salads.
• I like traveling by train. So much easier than flying sometimes!
• Americans are actually pretty nice....when compared to other tourists. I'm just saying....
• I am lucky as hell to be able to do a trip like this. I am thankful every day. :)
• I am even luckier to be able to do this with Darsh. Even more thankful. :)

Bali 3.0

The last week in Bali we pretty much spent lounging by the pool, swimming, relaxing, shopping, and doing not a whole lot....oh and we also got to work out since we had a gym! :) We were in Nusa Dua, Sanur, and then Seminyak again. We decided to splurge a little and stayed at larger, nicer resorts. Luckily we got really great last minute deals and used points at the Hyatt in Sanur which was our favorite hotel by far in Bali....excellent food and service. We also loved Breezes in Seminyak which was pretty cheap and the staff were really helpful and friendly.

Nusa Dua and Sanur are on the eastern part of the island. This is where all the large resorts are located with well manicured beaches (although not nearly as nice as Hawaii...or even LA!) There isn't as much to do in terms of nightlife, restaurants, shopping, etc. but we were ready for chill time in a nice environment. And it was nice not hearing the beeping of taxis asking if we wanted a ride every two seconds. :)

On our second to last night in Seminyak we went to Sarong for a fun night out. Our good friend Debra (from LA) introduced us to one of the owners of the restaurant, Andrew. He took time out of his busy schedule to hang with us for a bit and treated us to some yummy appetizers and drinks. We loved Sarong. The restaurant is the perfect combination of sexy, fun, and chic....and the food is the bomb! The fish tikka and mint chutney is outstanding....as were the 4 appetizers we had and the coconut ice cream.

Our last day we spent uploading pics, getting mani/pedi (me), $10 massage (Darsh) and having dinner at Ultimo again so Darsh could get the lasagna! Perfect way to end Bali and get ready for our 24 hour journey to Venice.

Selamat Tinggal Bali. Good times indeed. Until next time. :)

Art, Rice Fields, Monkeys, and Friends in Ubud

We were both really excited about Ubud. People rave about it. It’s full of art galleries, museums, cafes, restaurants, and rice fields. We walked all over checking out the galleries and shops. We did an 8km walking tour (via Lonely Planet) through the town, which took us through the Monkey Forest (again scary monkeys…one started following Darsh after he put my shiny necklace in his pocket), the local town of Penestanan, where the artists live, and some rice fields.

The walk was actually pretty cool and we were some of the only tourists in some areas and the people were so welcoming and warm. I have to admit though that while the rice fields were nice to see they aren’t anywhere near as cool as they look in pictures. I think they are one of those “beautiful from afar” kind of things....at least the ones we saw anyway....or maybe we're missing something. Also, I think I’m done with monkeys. What a bummer because I thought I loved monkeys! But seriously as I was walking through the Monkey Forest I was praying that one of them wouldn’t jump on me or even get near me….I really didn’t want to be “that girl” that freaked out in a Monkey Forest! But there were monkeys everywhere unattended and they are so fast and smart….I did everything I could not to make eye contact with them. Thankfully we got out ok. Yikes!

We also got a chance to see some friends from San Francisco – Dawn and Roneeta. We met them at Laughing Buddha Bar for drinks and then had dinner at Nomad. Darsh had the best Miso marinated butter fish ever! We were both feeling a little homesick so it was really nice being able to hang out with people from home. Roneeta and Dawn had been in Bali for almost two weeks and were traveling with two other girls Namritha and Amy who were really cute! It was good to hear their experiences in Bali so far….especially since we were going to many of the same places soon.

Ubud is definitely not a late night town but there are a lot of good eating and drinking options. We liked Casa Luna (good coffee and desserts), Three Monkeys (good juices), Cinta Grill (good mojitos - buy one get one free Happy Hour!), and Café Des Artistes (nice romantic setting). I love Indonesian food – the spices make everything taste so yummy! We also checked out the Four Seasons, which is unreal. It is set in the middle of this lush, tropical jungle in the middle of Sayan Valley. Simply amazing! If we weren’t traveling for 4 months this is where I’d want to stay! :)

We were only in Ubud for two days but that was enough time for us. There is more you can do there like hike, bike, white water rafting….or even just shop, eat, or read a book, but we still had more of the island to see. Plus I really wasn’t loving the roosters keeping me up starting at 5am every morning! If I could have done one thing differently, I would have upgraded our accommodations – our room (at Honeymoon Guesthouses) was not great, pretty basic (although had a great breakfast). But most importantly it had no soundproofing so you could hear everything (roosters, dogs, etc.)….oh and the room always felt wet and smelled musty….the bed was actually wet - yuck! No worries though, because we’re heading to Nusa Dua next where people say it isn’t really Bali because it’s perfectly manicured with postcard quality beaches….but I don’t think roosters will be a problem and I am so ready for a nice beach, pool, and room! :)

Living it up in Bali - Villa Style

The first few nights in Bali we stayed in a Villa (Bali Rich Villas) in Seminyak. The Villa was huge with a kitchen, our own small pool and an outdoor shower. It was pretty nice! The only downfall was that much of it was outside and so we had a lot of bugs…but hey it’s Bali! Oh and the outdoor shower takes some getting used to but is so fun!

They say Seminyak is where the hip, trendy, pretty people go. It’s full of small boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. Our villa was only about ½ a mile from the beach but we soon discovered it really wasn’t all that walkable. The streets are really narrow and with so much construction going on much of the sidewalks are unusable. So we ended up having to take cabs at night. Not a big deal but we both like being more accessible to the beach.

We were there on a Saturday night so we did the scene even though we were exhausted. We had dinner at Ultimo, which had the best lasagna I’ve ever had (it melted in your mouth). By the way, we got there at 10pm and the whole street was PACKED! After dinner we decided to check out the Living Room and Hu’u Bar, both of which are lounge/clubs that supposedly are the places to go. Maybe we were there on an off night but it was too much like Hollywood….people trying too hard….only this time they were Europeans/Australians. That said, they were playing good music and the lounges/restaurants themselves were pretty cool to see. We did also catch the sunset at Ku De Ta which is another Seminyak must do. Good music, good people-watching, and nice sunset!

One day we hired a driver who took us down south to Dreamland and Padang Padang Beaches. These beaches were beautiful and the surf was pretty rough so it was fun to just chill and watch the surfers. We also went to Ulu Watu Temple which is on a cliff and the views below are just amazing. Around the temple there were tons of wild monkeys on the path. I love monkeys but you discover quickly that they are really sneaky and will steal anything….hats, jewelry, glasses. They were pretty freaky actually. For lunch we went to the Bulgari Resort which is on the top of a cliff and just spectacular. Somehow we got insanely ridiculous treatment….always a bonus! They tried to get us to stay there, but we had to break the news to them that the rooms were about $1000/night over our budget. Then on our way back to Seminyak we stopped at Jimbaran Bay to have fresh seafood on the beach….we were still stuffed from lunch so barely ate but it was beautiful eating on the beach. This was our favorite day by far and our driver Made was great. He was so cute and even told us he would miss us when we left.....he really loved Darsh. Awe. :)

One Night in Bangkok

I always wanted to say we did “One night in Bangkok”. Well technically we did, but the night wasn’t really anything similar to what my vision of a night in Bangkok would be.

We were actually supposed to be here for two nights but we changed our trip based on all the turmoil that was going on a few weeks/months ago. Thankfully, things are much better now but we had already changed our flights so not much we could do….plus we’ve been to Bangkok so we decided to do a quick stopover. We landed in Bangkok last night at 10pm and left for the airport at 6:30am this morning.

And since our hotel had a gym (which we haven’t had for a while), Darsh actually asked if they could open it early (at 5:30am) so we could use it before we left. I thought he was crazy when he asked the hotel staff at 5am but I was happy he did it after our quick workout (thanks Darsh!). Yes I know we’re both slightly crazy! :)

So that’s it - our “Night in Bangkok” consisted of going to bed at 11pm and waking up at 5am to workout. Not at all the night of debauchery “One night in Bangkok” probably should be! Perhaps I’m old or lame….or both! Maybe we’ll make it up in Bali!!!! :)

Getting Our Temple on in Siem Reap

We took a bus to Siem Reap from Phnom Penh. It was a pretty pleasant 4-hour drive. Mid-way we stopped and this is where I learned that Cambodians eat fried bugs. Literally they just get a bag of fried crickets and eat them like chips. The woman next to us on the bus got some….I was seriously in awe. I noticed some other fried bugs as well….not exactly sure what they were but they were big. Yikes! Oh and I read in a cookbook that fried tarantulas are quite a delicacy….no joke!

The City River Hotel, where we stayed, was nicely situated on the Siem Reap River and near Pub/Alley streets lined with bars, restaurants, and markets. Luckily we had 4 days in Siem Reap so we had lots of time to see all the amazing temples at a very chill pace. We got a 3-day pass, which gives you access to all the main temples. Our longest day of temple hopping started at 5am so that we could see the sunrise at Angkor Wat. That day we had a tour guide and a driver, which in my opinion isn’t necessary. It was nice but I actually would prefer to soak it all in on my own….plus 5am is way too early to feel like you have to make small talk with someone you don’t know. That said, since we had the guide we were able to get onto the top floor of Angkor Wat even though it was closed (doesn’t open until 8am)…..which meant we got some great pics! :) Our favorite temples were Bayon (made up of several towers decorated with faces), Ta Prohm (this was in Tomb Raider movie and has the most amazing trees growing on top of temples), Ta Keo (really fun to climb the steep steps) and of course Angkor Wat (which is huge and has the most intricate carvings of the Ramayana). The work that went into these temples is just remarkable. Some of them took almost 40 years to make with 400,000 workers….and built over 1000 years ago. It’s really unbelievable. We took our time walking through the temples and exploring every little corner. Seriously you got a great workout climbing all the stairs…not to mention it was dreadfully hot!!

Most people see the temples early in the morning. We discovered this one day when we got a late start, which was pretty nice because we got the temples to ourselves. Seriously you feel like Indiana Jones walking through these massive structures with tunnels everywhere. We hiked up to Phnom Bhakeng which is quite impressive as it’s on a mountain and you can see views of Angkor Wat. On our way up a forest trail we saw a snake, which totally freaked me out. Ugh I hate snakes but we made it out ok and even managed not to get rained on despite the thunder/lightening the whole way up! We also took a tuk tuk to Banteay Srei which is about 40km from Siem Reap. The temple was fairly small compared to the others but had very intricate carvings in pink sandstone. I would have to say though that the best part was the drive out there. We drove through little villages where you could see children playing and workers in the rice fields. The children on the way were so cute and often smiled and waved Hello!

It rained a few days while we were in Siem Reap so we had one nice lazy rainy day. We watched Tomb Raider (which sucked by the way and they don’t even give Cambodia any credit. I think Ta Prohm was in one scene but in the movie they were in Africa….or we both missed something….) and just walked around Pub and Alley streets….and we chilled by the pool when it wasn’t raining. The downtown area is pretty small and we ran into people we met almost every day – Barnabe from France and Pascal/Miriam from Holland. It was fun hanging with peeps from the trip.

Siem Reap has a great night scene….with really good drink specials (50 cent beers and $2 cocktails). You can go all out – cheesy bar style or you can chill in a lounge/restaurant. We did both. :) And we ate pretty well here. I don’t know if it’s the freshness of the ingredients or just that Cambodians can really cook but everything just seemed to taste better here. Of course I got papaya salad everywhere I went…and mango smoothies. We also had the fish amok (fish in coconut curry – I highly recommend) and beef lok lak (just ok). Some of our favorite restaurants were Temple (good local food with a free traditional dance performance…and turns into a full dance club at night), Samsara (yummy Indian food), Le Tigre de Papier (good pizza – I was trying to be good but after a couple of drinks I caved – it happens….twice….yikes!)

Even though we had enough time in Siem Reap we were sad to go. I really felt like the people were genuine and wanted people to visit their country. I didn’t feel like everything was about the “sell” which was a nice change. I can see now why people fall in love with Cambodia. :)